Back in Mexico again after a seven-year hitch in Saudi Arabia, we decided it was time to revisit the sites we described in our book Outdoors in Western Mexico, published in 1998. Over the years, we have received encouraging comments on the book (including very kind words from Carl Franz, Señor Camping-In-Mexico himself) but in a few cases we were told, “Sorry, Pints, that place you describe no longer exists,” or “I couldn’t find that hidden spring of yours for all the frijoles in Mexico…it sure is hidden alright.”

OK, OK, we hope to revisit some of the nicest places near Guadalajara and to let you know how they look today. We will also give you the exact latitude and longitude of these sites and suggest you invest in an inexpensive GPS (They sell for less than $100 these days) so you can’t possibly go astray (I hope these will not turn out to be famous last words).

In 1998 we celebrated the beauty and solitude of El Diente, the most striking of hundreds of tall monoliths located only 15 minutes from Guadalajara’s Periférico. Today, at the end of 2005, we are happy to report that the impressive rocks are still there, but you’ll have to do a bit of walking to enjoy the solitude and silence of bygone years.

El Diente is still one of the favorite sites of Guadalajara’s rock climbers and you can still spend hours watching them practice their techniques on the tallest of the monoliths. Unfortunately, you may now have to put up with background music from boom boxes brought to the foot of the slope by domingueros (Sunday picnickers). In the past, El Diente was only reachable on foot, but today anyone willing to pay three dollars (30 pesos) can drive through a “tollgate” at Río Blanco and park next to the climbing site. By allowing cars to enter, the good people of Río Blanco have also invited in noise, garbage and graffiti.

As always, the solution is to go where domingueros fear to tread: anywhere more than five meters from their cars! We wandered only 350 meters east of the parking area and—lo and behold—found the solitude and beauty of yesteryear.

We meandered through a field dotted with nearly round rocks reminiscent of the famed Piedras Bolas. The hillside above us was covered with tall, majestic monoliths, among which we spotted a slim column which appeared to be supporting an oval-shaped, balanced rock. We hiked up for a closer look and discovered a curious formation we dubbed The Swab, hoping this name might fit in with the toothy nature of the area.

 

A few minutes away you'll find unspoiled areas covered with curiously shaped monoliths.

 

SUSY'S SOCCER BALL

 

THE SWAB ... OR IS IT E.T.'S BROTHER?

What else might be hidden among the mighty rocks farther up awaits your discovery. The view alone ought to be well worth the climb. Yes, unspoiled beauty and fresh air are still out there, just beyond the city limits. If you agree or disagree, let us know!

Location of El Diente parking spot: N20°47’20.1”  W103°23’47.4”

Location of The Swab: N20°47’18.3”  W103°23’35.4”

How to Get There

Look for the big highway to Tesistán in the northwest sector of the Periférico, near the Belenes Gigante supermarket. From here drive east on the Periférico for 1.8 kms till you see Plaza San Isidro. Alongside this shopping center there’s a highway going to San Isidro. Drive north on this road for about two minutes. Immediately after passing under the second set of high tension wires, turn left, following a sign for Hacienda La Providencia. This road eventually narrows and winds its way to the town of Río Blanco. After crossing the bridge in the center of town, watch for the primary school on your right. Make a right turn just after the school. In about two minutes you’ll come to an iron gate on your right. Pay the fee, go through the gate and drive about 600 meters northeast to the parking area. Total driving time from the Periférico to the foot of the monoliths: about 16 minutes.

John Pint