Sometime in the 1980s, we were exploring Cerro El Colli, which is not just a hill but actually a giant cork plugging the hole from which the last volcanic eruption took place in the Primavera Forest, some 30,000 years ago. We were standing on the highest point of El Colli, looking at endless kilometers of pine and oak forest far below us, when suddenly a huge water spout shot straight into the air, somewhere in the distance to the southwest. It was a first-class geyser and, of course, there and then we decided we had to go find it.
     Eventually, we did, but instead of a Mexican Yellowstone, we found 13 “Christmas trees,” that is, fat pipes and valves sitting on top of wells up to three kilometers deep, sunk by the Federal Electricity Commission (CFE) with the aim of producing vast amounts of geothermal power.
     Instead of electricity, however, this project produced great controversy. The CFE had denuded many pristine hills of one of the world’s most fragile forests and had tried literally to cover it up (when El Presidente passed over in a helicopter) by painting the bare hills green. On top of that, environmentalists predicted that runoff from the project would contaminate the forest with noxious substances.
     So, silence has enshrouded the capped wells of the Primavera for years. In the meantime, new techniques have been developed across the world for producing electricity in thermal areas without harming the environment. According to Pedro Fernandez Somellera of BIOJACO (an organization for the protection of the Jalisco-Colima biosphere), electricity can be safely generated from the Primavera steam wells by injecting all the water it produces back down into the wells. Since the CFE has renewed their lease on this area for another year, it is possible that something concrete will finally be done to turn the steam into electricity. Meanwhile, visitors to the eastern side of the Primavera Forest can take advantage of the CFE’s well-maintained roads to explore and enjoy one of the most peaceful and pristine woods in all Mexico.
     However, when you leave the Periferico to follow Avenida Mariano Otero west of Guadalajara, you would never guess you were anywhere near a place of peace and beauty. On a Friday morning, this stretch of road turns into a combination tianguis and flea market and you would have to go all the way to Iraq to find a wilder and noisier melée. Five kilometers up the road, however, you come to the official entrance to the Bosque de la Primavera. Beyond this point, the traffic peters out ... but, unfortunately, the road deteriorates. However, in this neck of the woods you come to strange places like "Ras El Tin" a rancho with an Arabic name, specializing in the sale of live lambs. By the way, you definitely need a high-clearance vehicle to enjoy this part of the trip.

    Curiously, the road gets much better once you turn off Mariano Otero and into the woods. Here you can find unspoiled wilderness areas like Cerro El Tule, which are ideal for camping or hiking, or you can drive straight to the capped geysers, where you’ll find an impeccable asphalt road and probably not a human being in sight.

Thanks to the CFE, bike riders and skateboarders can have a field day in the Ghost Park.

     The rolling hills and high-class road are so nice, you’d think you were in the swankiest fraccionamiento of Guadalajara, except for the utter lack of houses and people. Each of the wells has a monster valve connected to a monster pipe leading to a big yellow noise muffler resembling a giant can of tonic water. Well number nine is especially interesting as it has a little pipe carrying live steam to a barrel about 80 meters to the south. Here the steam condenses and dribbles into a shallow pool of water with a “No Swimming” sign above it. There are no guards around to enforce this, but the rotten-egg smell wafting off the pool is probably enough to discourage most swimmers.

"Lucky I forgot my swim suit," says John alongside the sulfurous pool.

     So, leave your swimsuit home, but bring along your hiking boots or even a bicycle or roller skates and you’ll find you have an entire Ghostly Amusement Park all to yourself.

WARNING AUGUST 6, 2007: We attempted to visit the Ghost Park today and were told that it is now off limits for visitors. Sorry about that!

How to Get There
     Take the Periferico to Av. Mariano Otero, set your odometer and head west. When the road divides, bear left. Five kilometers from the Periferico, you’ll come to the entrance gate to the Bosque de la Primavera. Register and drive nine kilometers along the twisting, climbing dirt road until you see a road marked Rancho La Mezcalera on your left, possibly next to a field of blue agaves. A few meters ahead there’s a road on your right where you may see a sign mentioning Mirador de la Cuesta. Turn right. After 2.5 kms, you’ll see the former CFE quarry on your right, now surrounded by young pine trees planted by dedicated ecologists. On your left there’s a short dirt road heading downhill and crossing a small concrete bridge. This leads to a nice camping-hiking-picnic spot at the foot of Cerro El Tule. About two kms ahead, the road forks. Bear left and in half a minute you’ll be on the CFE asphalt road. The road winds down into a valley where you’ll find well number nine on your left, about 4.5 kms beyond the quarry. Total time from the Periferico: about 36 minutes.

JOHN AND SUSY PINT