Updated May 1, 2021


Chapter 1, The Agua Fría River
Take precautions if you leave your car at the parking spot. We heard that some unattended cars have been vandalized. Instead, park at Balneario San José, just 300 meters away.

Chapter 3, El Cerro de Tequilizinta
March, 2017. The trail to Tequilizinta is in fine shape. A few people can be found living in the ghost town on weekends. They are very friendly and happy to see visitors. After your hike you can now jump into the room-temperature spring water at Las Pilas Balneario, where you can also leave your car for the hike. See Tequilizinta Ghost Town.

Chapter 4, Dolphin Beach
Thirty years later, I went back to Dolphin Beach, expecting it either to be gone entirely or buried under asphalt and concrete. But...it still looks just the same with no footprints in the sand but those of raccoons! For the full story and precise info on how to get there, see "At Dolphin Beach, it’s just pristine sands, lush jungle, racoons and you."

Chapter 5, La Piedra Gorda
The view from the top (2400 masl) is as gorgeous as ever, but now it's much easier to find the place. Click here for the update.

Chapter 6, La Campana: The Psychedelic Bell
Fortunately, these marvelous rock formations are still in pristine condition. Please help to keep them that way! You'll find new info on accessing La Campana in The Psychedelic Bell, the New Mascota Museum and Magical San Sebastián.

Chapter 8, Puerto de Lourdes
The man-made caves are still there! They were closed to the public for some years but they are now open daily from 4:00 to 8:00 PM and 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM Sundays. There is no fee, but donations are welcome. See Puerto de Lourdes Update.

Chapter 10, The Magic Pool
O Woe! They dismantled that beautiful bridge because they planned to construct a dam on the river. Then they decided not to build the dam!  FLASH: 2017 update: The bridge was rebuilt 700 meters downstream and you can cross it there...and the pool's correct name (I'm told) is El Charco del Cangrejo.

Chapter 11, El Mirador de Santa Rosa
The road from Amatitán to El Salvador has been paved and this is now a much easier way to view the canyon. See Santa Rosa Valley. As for the route via Santa Lucia, Eileen Collard's Update gives us much needed coordinates for finding the Mirador.

Chapter 13, Cerro El Tule
Access to this lovely place via Mariano Otero may be denied during the dry season.

Chapter 15, El Diente

New information on hiking among the incredible rock formations of Cerro El Diente and on a new movement to Save the Tooth.

Chapter 16, Tequila Volcano
As marvelous as ever. Click here  for an update on the road conditions and how to find the easy path inside the crater.

Chapter 19, Los Chorros de Tala

We revisited the site in 2015 and here's the scoop!

Chapter 20, Las Siete Cascadas de Tonalá

They are still there in 2017, but things have changed! The good news is that there's a new, easy way to drive there. See The 7 Falls Update.

Chapter 23, The Great Rocks of Tapalpa
The rocks are now enclosed by a fence and quite the tourist attraction on weekends. Go on a weekday, if you can.

Chapter 24, Cerro de San Esteban

Click here  for an update on a better trail for reaching the top of the Cerro.

Chapter 26, Río Caliente
Huge numbers of people have discovered this delightful hot river. It’s jammed on weekends but not bad on weekdays.

Chapter 29, El Volcán de Ceboruco

A visitors center has come and gone on the peak, but the crater is just as spectacular as ever! Camping in the meadow below the fumaroles. See the Update.

Chapter 32, El Altilte
Good news! Government officials have ordered the local ranchers to “put back” the lake they drained. You’ll find it 2.5 kilometers northwest of the petroglyphs.

Chapter 34, El Salto Waterfall
Here’s another place which has become very popular on weekends and holidays. On a work day, however, you’ll probably have it all to yourself.

Chapter 35, Los Cazos
It appears that cars are now allowed to enter Los Cazos for a small fee. Besides the waterfall, check out the scenic area around the ancient cazos (fermentation pots).

Chapter 37, Guava Beach
It’s still a lovely hike to this spot, but if you prefer to drive relatively close to it, check out The Salty River.

Camping at Guava Beach: Check here for new information on where you can pitch your tent safely.

Chapter 39, The Ferrería River
Our recommended parking spot, Don Andrés’ backyard, has been taken away from him. However, there is plenty of room to park on the shoulder of the road near his home.